sometimes thought that their fire partook more of the glare of
malice than the brightness of valour, though the latter would
well have harmonized with the high chivalric air of his figure,
in which Cavigni, with all his gay and gallant manners, was his
inferior.¶
On entering the Milanese, the gentlemen exchanged their
French hats for the Italian cap of scarlet cloth, embroidered; and
Emily was somewhat surprised to observe, that Montoni added
to his the military plume, while Cavigni retained only the feather:
which was usually worn with such caps: but she at length con-
cluded, that Montoni assumed this ensign of a soldier for conveni-
ence, as a means of passing with more safety through a country
over-run with parties of the military.¶
Over the beautiful plains of this country the devastations of war
were frequently visible. Where the lands had not been suffered to
lie uncultivated, they were often tracked with the steps of the
spoiler; the vines were torn down from the branches that had
supported them, the olives trampled upon the ground, and even
the groves of mulberry trees had been hewn by the enemy to light
fires that destroyed the hamlets and villages of their owners.
Emily turned her eyes with a sigh from these painful vestiges of
contention, to the Alps of the Grison, that overlooked them to the
north, whose awful solitudes seemed to offer to persecuted man a
secure asylum.¶
The travellers frequently distinguished troops of soldiers moving
at a distance; and they experienced, at the little inns on the road,
the scarcity of provision and other inconveniences, which are a part
of the consequence of intestine war; but they had never reason to
be much alarmed for their immediate safety, and they passed on to
Milan with little interruption of any kind, where they staid not
to survey the grandeur of the city, or even to view its vast cathedral,
which was then building.¶
Beyond Milan, the country wore the aspect of a ruder devasta-
tion; and though every thing seemed now quiet, the repose was
like that of death, spread over features, which retain the impression
of the last convulsions.¶
It was not till they had passed the eastern limits of the Milanese,
that the travellers saw any troops since they had left Milan, when,
as the evening was drawing to a close, they descried what appeared
to be an army winding onward along the distant plains, whose
spears and other arms caught the last rays of the sun. As the column
advanced through a part of the road, contracted between two